Aisha Rao declares couture is entering its boldest chapter, powered by tech but owned by emotions

Known for her magical couture vision, Indian fashion designer Aisha Rao has always existed in a space that has defied the expected, and her latest collection and ideation are a striking extension of that philosophy. In an exclusive conversation with The Times of India, the designer opens up about bridging the gap between identity and evolution, embraces the influence of AI and technology in couture expansion, and notes everything about bridal experimentations, which are far less bound by legacy and cultural rules today.But, perhaps the most compelling layer of conversation lies in her take on how AI and technology can influence couture, starting from visualisation to design language and more. From unpacking the ideal vision behind her latest collection to giving an edge to bridal fashion and its sensibilities, here’s a more in-depth look at our conversation. Aisha: “Inter-Hana” began as a reflection on what it means to exist in-between, not as a pause, but as a space where the most honest growth happens. For me, it’s deeply personal. I’ve often felt that the most defining moments aren’t the milestones but the quieter transitions – where you’re evolving, questioning, and becoming, often without fully realising it.Life unfolds across a spectrum of moments. Between milestones and micro-occasions, meaning is built through feeling. It’s within this continuum, intimate yet expansive, that the collection finds its rhythm.The idea of 'Inter-Hana' – 'inter' meaning 'between' and ‘hana’ meaning 'flower' – captures that duality. At Aisha Rao, every collection begins like a garden; ideas are planted with intent but allowed the freedom to grow in unexpected directions. This season felt like stepping into that unknown with greater conviction.It also marks a moment of authorship with everything developed in-house, the process itself becoming a reflection of self-reliance, intention, and a deeper connection to the act of making. At its core, the collection is about intention, about dressing with purpose and creating with conviction. It captures Aisha Rao at her finest; artistry and craft, as usual, shape identity, and elegance emerges through feeling.Beyond the bling: Fashion mogul Amit Aggarwal says the future of fashion is consciousAisha: For us, it’s always been about pushing our own boundaries with every collection, constantly evolving how we approach embroidery, surface, and materiality. With Inter-Hana, that instinct translated into taking complete authorship of the fabrics ourselves.What excited me most was the opportunity to build something from scratch. We developed an engineered mesh in-house using resham and badla, along with a cotton mesh where our motifs are integrated directly into the weave. We also experimented with scrunched lurex and layered organza, really leaning into tactility this season. It became less about just how the fabric looks and more about how it feels and moves with the body.There was a lot of trial and error involved, multiple rounds of sampling to arrive at something that felt just right. But that process is what makes it meaningful. You’re not just designing garments; you’re engineering a response – a fabric that behaves exactly the way you envision it to. I think the driving force is always that curiosity, the desire to explore what we haven’t cracked before. To create something that didn’t exist for us until now and to shape it into a material that feels inherently Aisha Rao – structured yet fluid yet intentional.Aisha: Technology is definitely reshaping couture, but not by replacing craft, rather by reframing how it’s experienced.On one hand, platforms like Instagram have completely changed access and immediacy. Couture, which was once reserved for a very private audience, is now part of a larger, more democratic visual culture. The way a garment is seen, shared, and interpreted has expanded; it lives beyond the runway, often taking on new meaning through the people who engage with it. At the same time, tools like AI are opening up new ways of thinking, whether it’s in visualisation, prototyping, or even storytelling. It allows you to test ideas, push boundaries, and imagine possibilities at a pace that wasn’t possible before.Fashion flashback: When Asha Bhosle hijacked Manish Malhotra’s fashion show at 79 and no one saw it comingBut for me, couture will always remain deeply human. The hand, the time, the intervention – that’s where its value lies. Technology can enhance the process, but it can’t replace the emotion embedded in craft. The balance, I think, is in using technology as a collaborator, not a substitute, allowing it to expand our vocabulary while staying rooted in the deeply personal nature of couture.Aisha: I think the shift in Indian bridal wear is really being driven by a change in mindset. Brides today are no longer interested in following a prescribed idea of what a bride should look like; they’re choosing pieces that feel authentic to who they are and why they’re wearing them.Colour, for instance, is no longer dictated by tradition alone. There’s a certain emotional honesty in the way brides are approaching their choices now, whether that’s softer palettes, unexpected tones, or even reinterpreting classics in a more personal way. Comfort has also become central to the conversation. There’s a desire for movement, for ease, to dance in what they’re wearing rather than being restricted by it. We’ve seen a strong response to pieces like pre-draped sarees and fishtail lehengas that bring a certain fluidity and modernity to more traditional forms. Even small details, like adding pockets, begin to shift how a bride experiences her outfit.At its core, the change is less about trend and more about intent. Bridal wear is becoming an extension of the bride’s personality – something that celebrates her mood, her individuality, and the way she wants to move through one of the most important days of her life.Aisha: I think today’s brides are incredibly self-aware. They’re more exposed to trends than ever before, but they’re not interested in simply following them. They’re willing to question norms and step away from what’s expected, not to stand out, but because they have a clear sense of what feels right for them.What really stands out is the level of personalisation. Every bride approaches it in her own way through silhouette, colour, or even the smallest details that make the outfit feel hers distinctly. Even when a trend is visible, it rarely translates the same way twice.They’re definitely hyper-aware of what’s current, but instead of adopting it as-is, they draw from it, reinterpreting ideas in a way that aligns with their personality and the mood they want to create. So it feels less like trend-following and more like instinctive styling. Each choice is considered yet intuitive, and that’s what makes the modern bride so compelling to design for. Aisha: I think the next season is about pushing this idea of authorship even further. We’ve begun exploring what it truly means to build everything from within, not just the garments but the very language of the brand, and that’s something we’re excited to deepen.There will be a continued focus on developing textiles in-house, experimenting with surfaces, and evolving our approach to craft in a way that feels both intentional and instinctive. We’re also expanding our verticals, with jewellery, and we are working on it as an extension that feels like a natural progression of our design language. You’ll see us take the appliqué story forward with a new dimension, refining it, but also reimagining how it can exist across forms.More than anything, the focus is on maintaining the purity of our work, staying true to our idea of purposeful luxury, while continuing to offer designs that feel thoughtful and distinctive.