North Quays

Characterful cobbled streets and a vast park
Word to the wise: Smithfield was famous for its horse trading, and an impromptu Equine market still occasionally takes place on a Sunday morning.

Talk of the town: Bram Stoker was inspired to write Dracula by seeing the mummies in the crypt at St Michan's Church.
The stretch on the north side of the Liffey opposite Temple Bar and the Liberties has real character, and far fewer tourists than its southern neighbour, as well as the city's largest green space, Phoenix Park.

Cross over from the south at O'Connell Bridge, turning left and strolling along the river, dipping down side streets as the mood takes you, to explore the largely residential neighbourhoods. Well worth the detour is the historic Smithfield area, recently regenerated and dominated by a large, cobbled square, as well as the seriously ancient St Michan's Church. As you head towards Phoenix Park, it's impossible to miss the vast facade of the National Museum, a rewarding showcase of national decorative arts.

The walk will take you past several tempting places to re-fuel, including a clutch of very good Italians, the swanky bar at the Morrison Hotel and some well-known spit and sawdust pubs, while the whiskey-inclined should head straight to the Jameson Distillery.