Retiro

The ritz and rush of Retiro
Talk of the town: Book buffs may enjoy a look at the private apartment of Argentinean author Jorge Luis Borges (Maipu 994).

Word to the wise: The area beyond Retiro bus station is home to urban slums and wasteland, and best avoided.
Located between the teeming masses of Microcentro and the belle époque beauty of Recoleta, is chic Retiro, combining the characteristics of its neighbouring barrios. During the 17th century a monastery was built here, and it later became the country retiro (retreat) of Spanish governor Augustin de Robles.

The sloping leafy gardens of Plaza San Martin became the epicentre of life, at times a slave market, a military fort, a bullring and eventually one of the best green spaces in the city. This plaza is home to many important landmarks, such as the Palacio San Martin, the former foreign ministry, housed in a beautiful art nouveau mansion, and the incredible 12,000sqm Palacio Paz, the largest and perhaps most impressive private residence in Argentina.

The best restaurants and bars are found on the parallel streets of San Martin and Reconquista, but for shopping head to the Retiro end of Florida, where the cheap chain stores turn into expensive fashion brands, fur and leather retailers, as well as a few interesting boutiques.