Prada-Kolhapuri row: Fashion giant to meet Maharashtra industry body; India seeks fair recognition, ethical collaboration

Italian luxury fashion house Prada is set to engage in a high-level virtual meeting with the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture (MACCIA) on July 11 to explore a possible collaboration on a Kolhapuri chappal-inspired men’s sandal line. The discussions come in response to growing calls for recognition of Indian craftsmanship after the brand showcased designs resembling traditional Kolhapuri footwear in its Spring-Summer 2026 menswear collection.As per ET, the meeting is expected to include Lorenzo Bertelli, head of corporate social responsibility at Prada, and Roberto Massardi, chief business development officer. In a letter dated June 30, MACCIA proposed forming a joint working group comprising representatives from Prada, MACCIA, and local artisan organisations, with a focus on co-branded limited-edition collections, skill development aligned with global standards, and cultural exchange initiatives.“This initiative will not only set a global benchmark for ethical fashion but also demonstrate how heritage and innovation can harmoniously co-exist,” MACCIA President Lalit Gandhi wrote in the letter, as per ET. Gandhi also suggested setting up a ‘Prada Artisan Excellence Lab’ in Kolhapur or Mumbai and advocated for a fair trade value chain to benefit rural artisans.Confirmation for the virtual discussion came from Elena Usan, Prada Group Marketing Secretary Office Coordinator, who acknowledged the upcoming video call with MACCIA representatives on July 2.MACCIA had initially written to Prada on June 25, urging the brand to formally recognise the traditional inspiration behind the sandals and explore fair compensation or collaborative models. The move followed backlash on social media over Prada’s failure to credit Kolhapuri artisans during its Milan fashion show.As per PTI, Prada responded by acknowledging that its new sandal designs were indeed “inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear,” while clarifying that the collection was still at a developmental stage, with no confirmation yet on commercialisation. In his reply, Bertelli emphasised Prada’s commitment to “responsible design practices, fostering cultural engagement, and opening a dialogue for a meaningful exchange with local Indian artisan communities.”The Kolhapuri chappal, which received Geographical Indication (GI) status in 2019, is a handmade leather sandal known for its intricate craftsmanship and deep cultural roots in Maharashtra. Artisans from Kolhapur and surrounding districts had raised concerns over the lack of credit, with BJP MP Dhananjay Mahadik meeting Maharashtra chief minister Devendra Fadnavis to seek protection for the GI-tagged product.In his communication, Gandhi stressed that these sandals represent centuries-old tradition and support thousands of livelihoods. He said that while global fashion brands are welcome to draw inspiration from Indian heritage, such collaborations must uphold ethical standards and benefit the source communities.With the scheduled talks, both sides appear open to establishing a collaborative framework that respects traditional knowledge while aligning with global fashion trends.