Temples, filter coffee and other mysteries

By R Prashanth Vidyasagar

To understand Bengaluru beyond its tech corridors and traffic loops, you have to step into the neighbourhoods that shaped its early character. And there’s perhaps no better place to start than Malleswaram — one of Bengaluru’s oldest, most culturally alive neighbourhoods. A place where century-old temples sit com fortably beside hip cafés, where conserv ancy lanes hum with history, and where every turn feels like a conversation between old and new. It’s a locality that has evolved without losing its soul, making it ideal for slowing down and rediscovering the city’s layers.

INTO THE HEART OF MALLESWARAM
Lasting two to three hours, the walks feel a little like playing Assassin’s Creed in real life — only instead of rooftops, you’re slipping through temple courtyards, shaded conservancy lanes and the hum of old markets. We began at Malleswaram Park, where morning light filtered through the trees as walkers introduced them selves — retirees, students, newcomers, a few tourists — all gathered to explore the neighbourhood once called Mallapura. An inscription from 1669 CE at the Kadu Malleshwara Temple mentions the name, and the area, redeveloped in 1898 af ter a plague, still carries traces of that past in its small parks and orderly streets, originally planned as open “breathing spaces.”

MALLESWARAM IN ONE FRAME:
‘Greetings from Malleswaram’, a typographic mural by Saksham Verma, sits at the BMTC bus stand in the heart of the neighbourhood. Rooted in Malleswaram’s Old Bengaluru charm and its environmental, culinary, cultural, social and architectural heritage, the artwork marks the area’s presence and celebrates everything it has inherited and become.

A BREATH OF TRANQUILITY BY SANKEY TANK:
Skirting the edge of the shimmering Sankey Tank, this leafy stretch feels like the neighbourhood’s collective exhale. Early mornings bring walkers, joggers and birdcall; evenings glow with couples, families and the golden light pooling over the water. The road, lined with rain trees and old stone walls, offers one of North Bengaluru’s most scenic pauses — a reminder that even in a restless city, tranquillity can still be found just a few steps off the main streets.

A SHRINE BORN IN THE FOREST’S SHADOW:
Built in 1669 CE by Venkoji, Shivaji’s brother, this temple once rose from a thick, untamed forest — hence Kaadu Malleshwara. Step inside and the city noise fades; you’re suddenly standing in one of North Bengaluru’s oldest surviving structures, wrapped in the kind of silence only centuries can create; (below) conversations flow free as Bengalureans and tourists gather along the steps of the temple.

WHERE MUSIC FINDS ITS ECHO:
For decades, the Chowdiah Memorial Hall, located in one corner of Malleswaram, has been the city’s cultural heartbeat. Shaped like a colossal violin — strings, bow and all — this iconic hall was built in 1980 to honour violin legend T Chowdiah. The venue hosts everything from Carnatic concerts and dance recitals to theatre, fusion performances and school annual days.

THE UNDERGROUND SECRET THAT SLEPT FOR 400 YEARS:
Directly across the Dakshinamukha Nandi Teertha temple is an underground shrine once swallowed by time. Lost for nearly four centuries, this kalyani (sacred pond) has a south-facing Nandi from whose mouth flows a continuous stream of sacred water, believed to feed the Vrishabhavathi River. It feels like stepping into a forgotten chapter of the city.

OLD BENGALURU SERVED HOT AND CRISP:
Tucked into Malleswaram’s side streets are old-school eateries where time seems to slow down just enough for a perfect tumbler of filter coffee and a crisp dosa. Think tiny counters, clattering steel plates, the hiss of hot tawa batter and the unmistakable aroma of freshly ground coffee drifting out to the street. Places like Central Tiffin Room (CTR), Veena Stores and New Krishna Bhavan still serve the kind of breakfast that locals swear by — honest, unfussy and famously addictive. Stop by any of them and you’ll know why these spots are practically sacred to the neighbourhood.

HERE, EVERY ADDRESS SMELLS LIKE A MEMORY:
Named after the fragrant Champak trees that once lined the area, Sampige Road still carries a hint of old-world charm. And if you ever come across “Venkatranga Iyengar Road,” that’s said to be its original name — a reminder that even streets have stories tucked into their signboards.

WHERE WHISPERS OF OLD BENGALURU STILL LINGER:
A century ago, these narrow 8–10-foot passages behind homes were laid out for sanitation workers — quiet, utilitarian back routes meant to stay unseen. Today, they’re shortcuts splashed with murals, still carrying the hush of another time. Locals swear that if you truly know these lanes, you can reach anywhere that matters in Malleswaram in under 12 minutes — as if the neighbourhood itself reveals secret doors to those who’ve earned its trust.

CHAOS, COLOUR AND THE PULSE OF MALLESWARAM:
Welcome to the beating heart of the neighbourhood — Malleswaram 18th Cross. Vegetables, flowers, utensils, gossip — everything spills onto the street in full volume. You’ll leave with your bags full, your senses buzzing, and quite possibly a gentle elbow from a determined shopper.

THE HALL THAT RAISED ARTISTES AND AUDIENCES ALIKE:
A cultural landmark that has watched artistes, musicians, dancers and audiences pass through its doors for decades. Amid Bengaluru’s constant reinvention, Seva Sadan stands like an old storyteller — dignified, steady, and full of memories.

The host for the day, Sriram Aravamudan from Bangalore Local Walks, knows this ground like an old friend. A business strategist turned writer and musician, he stumbled into walking tours in 2022 and never quite looked back. What began as a one-off history walk for the Indian Institute of Human Settlements has now become his weekend ritual leading curious groups through various areas of Bengaluru.

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