Freshwater fish for our plates, palates in ban period

With the

fishing

ban coming into effect from June 1 like every year, the supply of sea

fish

has gone down drastically and local fishermen and fishing enthusiasts are looking at Goa’s many rivers, backwaters and estuaries for fresh catch.
Busiest time of the year for traditional fishermen
The supply of fish has anyway been on a downward spiral earlier than usual this year because of the lockdown and the effect of cyclone Tauktae. Viraj Sawant, a traditional fisherman from Amona, says, “The cyclone disrupted trawler operations in the sea much before the fishing ban came into effect on June 1. There’s a demand for

freshwater fish

and we’ve been getting a good catch of prawn, crabs, cat fish,

pearl

spot and mullets, which we sell to local fish sellers. Our regular customers who call us and buy from us directly.”

Messi

Fernandes, a fisherman from Agacaim, agrees, “This is the busiest time of the year for us, since trawlers stop and people look for freshwater fish. The entire traditional fishing community in this area has become active, and everyone engages in ethical fishing to let the fish breed during this time. Since we don’t venture far, and do not use mechanised fishing techniques, it doesn’t harm the ecosystem. We get a good catch of catfish, mullets, chonak, palu and more.”
There’s also a dedicated community of fishing enthusiasts that goes out looking for catch. “They usually fish in the bay, rivers or backwaters on a small scale. This is a better practice than mechanised fishing, as there’s no wastage, since you only catch enough for your needs. Bait fishing is very common among youngsters during this season,” adds Messi.
Cooking freshwater fish beyond

Goan

staples
The abundant availability of freshwater fish also gives foodies a chance to experiment in the kitchen. Ruben Rodrigues, a hospitality student and food blogger, tells us, “During this season, my village Kakoda has plenty of freshwater fish, since a lot of people go fishing. We cook the small ones in thick coconut gravy using red chillies and spices. The first rains also brings a harvest of tigur (Goan catfish) which we enjoy in the form of Ambot Tik.”
Chef Avinash Martins, from Cavatina in Benaulim, is known for his experimental cooking and uses global cooking techniques for the local freshwater catch. “I got freshwater Tilapia from Betul, and made an Indian version of an Italian baked fish. The fish was marinated with salt. The sauce was spiced with curry leaves, spices like chillies, turmeric and pepper, and baked in the oven for 25 minutes,” he says. Chef Sandeep Sreedharan, from Mahe in Anjuna, uses recipes from Kerala with Goan ingredients in his experimenting cooking. “I got some Khorsani (butter fish) from a local woman and it reminded me of kaichal fish we catch from the fields in the monsoon. I decided to make a spicy, semi dry, curry with kodamnpuli (an astringent fruit like kokum, used in Kerala fish curries) and it was delicious.” One could also make the Pollichathu with locally available pearl spot, which is essentially fish cooked with spices in banana leaf.

Freshwater fish is rich in nutritional value
“There are small nutritional differences between freshwater and saltwater fish. Freshwater species tend to have higher amounts of calcium, monounsaturated fatty acids and polyunsaturated fatty acids, which are heart-healthy fatty acids. They regulate inflammation, platelets, brain function, cellular growth, pain, sleep, and so on. Not to forget, the fish is a great source of protein required for repair and sustenance of the human body.” – Viveka Barros, clinical dietitian and sports nutritionist