Dive into the world of delicious ‘makha’

Aam, jaam or peyara, the next word that sits well with these is makha. It is a feeling, a tradition, and the taste of nostalgia for Bengalis. The tangy, spicy medley is a quick fix that transforms everyday ingredients into an explosion of flavours. Tossed in mustard oil, kasundi, with chopped green chilies, CT explores what makes this humble bowl an all-time hit.

‘Makha is deeply seasonal’
Bengalis grow up with all kinds of makhas, starting right from mashed rice and veggies, often a baby’s first solid food. In summer, makhas becomes a daily ritual since a variety of fruits like kamranga, jamrul, and kodbel are available around this time. “The jhal and tok mixed with the zing of kasundi gives an umami effect,” says Pritha.
Food writer Ranjini Guha puts forth how makhas cool the body, with its blend of salt, spices, and mustard oil. She recalls her mother’s sabu makha on Neel Sashti: “It was an absolute show-stealer.” Even overripe or tart fruits find purpose. “We used make Aam bhaate with unwanted mangoes, mustard oil, and salt,” said Debjani
Chatterjee Alam.

A dish and a quick fix
Makha has carved out a space in modern kitchens too, reinvented by time-starved urbanites and nostalgic cooks alike. “It’s a quick fix when my domestic help isn’t around. I sometimes just rustle up a chingri makha,” says Ranjini. “On days I have the time, I recreate a kodbel makha or nimki makha to bring back a slice of my childhood. The versatility of makha makes it endlessly adaptable, sometimes into a salad, sometimes as a side dish, and sometimes even as a starter. “Most makhas don’t follow a strict recipe, they can be freely innovated. But no Bengali recipe collection is complete without them,” adds Ranjini. “Toss some onion, green chilies, mustard, nimki, jhuri bhaja, and seasonal fruits like kancha aam and you have the perfect evening snack,” adds Debjani. Even non-vegetarian versions like chingri makha, murgi makha, and maachh makha have found their way into pop-up menus that celebrate rural Bengal.
Budget bites, big on taste
Makha is the epitome of frugality without compromising on taste. “Makha is multi-dimensional in its utility and taste,” says Ranjini. It makes clever use of pantry staples like mustard oil, green chillies, and salt – ingredients found in almost every Bengali kitchen. Often, overripe or slightly bruised fruits and leftover food items find a new lease on life as makha, ensuring minimal waste. Since it requires no cooking, it saves both time and fuel. “It is economical. The ingredients are mostly available in every household, which makes it affordable as well,” said Debjani.

Fruits for your makha

Kodbel makha. Pic: Debjani Chatterjee Alam

• Raw mango
• Jamun
• Wood apple
• Pomelo
• Guava
• Kamranga or Star fruit
• Jamrul or
• Rose apple
• Tamarind

Maach Makha

Kancha Aam Makha

Quotes:
Makha is multi-dimensional. It can be a salad, antipasti, or a humble home dish, it’s still not a lost tradition – Ranjini Guha, food writer

If you look at it economically, makha is a humble food for Bengalis. The ingredients are mostly available all the time in our pantry and also somewhat diminishes the affordability factor
– Debjani Chatterjee Alam, food writer

The making of kasundi starts during Akshaya Tritiya, and then with the arrival of summer fruits, the season is ideal for makhas – Pritha Sen, food historian