Ratha Yatra: Stories on wheels from Kolkata’s Bonedi Baris

Ratha Yatra might be typically associated with the grand festivities at Puri, but it has also been an integral festival in Bengal ever since Dhrubananda Brahmachari introduced it in the state in the 14th century, at Mahesh. Over the centuries, many zamindars too made it a part of their annual festivities, with distinctive traditions. This Ratha Yatra, we take a look at how bonedi baris in the city carry forward their legacies.

Sabarna Roy Chowdhury Bari of Barisha
How old is it? 306 years
What makes it unique? Started by Ray Krishnadev Majumder Chowdhury, the original chariot had the family deity presiding in it. In 1911, a smaller rath was created by Lal Kumar Roy Chowdhury who also built a temple dedicated to the Holy Trinity at Sakher Bazar, the idols of which are carried on the Rath every year till date. After a brief hiatus in the late 70’s; it commenced again with a replica of the Puri chariot, shares Prof Probal Roy Chowdhury, treasurer and joint organiser, Barisha Rathayatra Utsav Committee.

Marble Palace
How old is it? 200+ years
What makes it unique? Established by Raja Rajendra Mullick Bahadur, this Ratha Yatra celebration is open to all, but strictly prohibits photography. According to trustee Brotindro Mullick, the bhog offered to Lord Jagannath is the same as the one offered in Puri. He adds, “There’s a mosque situated inside our premises, and there was this one time we celebrated Ratha Yatra and Eid together as the festivals coincided.” To add to the revelry, a fair takes place on this day and Ulto Rath day too.

Sovabazar Rajbari (Chhoto torof)
How old is it? 200+ years
What makes it unique? A close knit family affair, Sovabazar Rajbari’s Ratha Yatra witnesses the family deity Narayan being carried across the courtyard on a freshly painted, traditional chariot. It is only on this day that family members are allowed to touch the deity and seek blessings from him, an activity which is strictly prohibited on any other day. Moreover, on the day of Ulto Rath, which marks Jagannath’s return to his abode in Puri, the family celebrates Kathamo Pujo, which kickstarts Durga Puja preparations for the year. The bamboo pole that is worshipped on this day, is then used to create the goddess’ right foot. “We do not follow the Mashir bari ritual that is observed in Puri, and many households here. The boror torof household, right across the street, also celebrates Ratha Yatra, but it is unrelated to ours,'' says Nandini Mitra from the family.

Laha Bari
How old is it? 150+ years
What makes it unique? For Laha Bari too, the family deity of Raghunath Jiu is placed on the traditional chariot that has been in the family for many years, during Rath Yatra. Everything is made from scratch by the family, be it bhog or decorations. All of the Lord’s favourite sweets, be it gaja or malpowa are made at home. Aparna Laha says, “Ratha yatra celebrations at our home are synonymous with family gatherings. We decorate the traditional Ratha with fresh flowers and lights.”

Dorjipara Mitra Bari
How old is it? 218 years
What makes it unique? Anasuya Mitra Biswas from the family shares, their home deity Raj Rajeswar is placed on the chariot and pulled across the courtyard or the temple roof on the day of Rath. Twenty eight red oleanders are offered to the deity, and traditionally, a pair of hilsas used to be welcomed into the household too on this day, marking the beginning of a period within which the family can consume Hilsa. On Ulto Rath, instead of following the mashir bari ritual, the family helps Jagannath trace his way back across the courtyard to the temple.