Bold themes, heritage craft: The signature style of Suneet Varma

From the bustling ateliers of Paris to the vibrant streets of India, Suneet Varma has carved a unique path in the world of couture, blending heritage with innovation in ways that captivate and inspire. Early experiences, such as interning with the legendary Yves Saint Laurent, laid the groundwork for a design philosophy rooted in storytelling, emotion, and meticulous detail. Over the years, his collections have taken bold, imaginative journeys, from the rebellious spirit of “The Pirates of Couture” to the sensual elegance inspired by the Kamasutra, each theme thoughtfully woven into every stitch.

A passionate champion of Indian artisanal traditions, Suneet Varma has masterfully balanced the preservation of painstaking crafts with contemporary aesthetics, bringing global recognition to India’s craftsmanship through collaborations with international luxury brands. His creative vision extends beyond fashion runways, influencing Bollywood cinema and pushing for inclusivity within the industry as an openly gay designer. In this candid conversation, we delve into how the ace designer navigates the worlds of high fashion and heritage craft, his thoughts on today’s fashion trends, and his hopes for the future of Indian fashion on the global stage. Join us as we explore the art, challenges, and heart behind the glamour.

1. How did your early experience interning with Yves Saint Laurent in Paris shape your design philosophy and approach to couture?
a. My time at Yves Saint Laurent was truly foundational. Being in Paris, surrounded by the discipline and finesse of true couture, opened my eyes to the power of detail and storytelling. At Saint Laurent, every garment had a reason, a mood, a narrative and that has stayed with me. It taught me to treat design as a form of emotional expression, not just fashion. That sense of romance and precision continues to influence my work today.
2. Your couture collections often revolve around unique themes, such as "The Pirates of Couture" and the Kamasutra-inspired show. How do you choose these themes and translate them into your designs?
a. For me, fashion is deeply personal. It should spark curiosity, emotion and dialogue. The themes come from things I’m passionate about that are art, history, literature, sometimes even travel or conversations. Once a concept takes hold, I immerse myself in its world. Every element, from fabric, embroidery, silhouette must reflect the story we’re telling. Whether it’s sensuality through the Kamasutra or rebellious glamour through the Pirates, the storytelling remains central.



3. You are known for reviving traditional Indian artisanal techniques while infusing them with contemporary aesthetics. How do you balance heritage craftsmanship with modern fashion sensibilities?
a. That balance is something I am constantly exploring. I deeply respect our traditional crafts and the generations of artisans who have kept them alive. But fashion must evolve, too. My goal is to take these exquisite techniques and present them through a modern lens. It might be through lighter silhouettes, new color palettes, or global cuts. It is about preserving tradition in a glass box yet evolving it with contemporary techniques to create designs that are relevant, wearable and celebrated.

4. Your collaborations with international luxury brands like Judith Leiber have brought Indian couture to a global audience. What challenges and opportunities have you encountered in these cross-cultural partnerships?
a. Collaborations like the one with Judith Leiber are special because they allow for a creative dialogue between cultures. The opportunity lies in bringing Indian craftsmanship into global luxury while ensuring it feels authentic and elevated. The challenge, of course, is alignment. Making sure both design languages complement each other. But when it works, it is incredibly rewarding. It proves that Indian artistry has a rightful place in the global luxury landscape
5.You have designed costumes for Bollywood films and received an Oscar nomination for 'Monsoon Wedding.' How does designing for a film differ from your couture and ready-to-wear lines?
a.Designing for films is a completely different process. In couture, I am creating a fantasy for the wearer. In a film, I am designing to serve the story and the character. The clothing must feel lived-in, rooted in the narrative. For Monsoon Wedding, it was about capturing the chaos, color and emotion of a real Indian wedding. Film demands subtlety and function, it is about character development, not just visual impact.

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6. Being openly gay, how has your personal journey influenced your creative expression and your role in the Indian fashion industry?
a. My journey has definitely shaped the way I create and how I exist in this industry. I have always believed in authenticity whether in life or in design. Being open about who I am has given me a deeper emotional lens and I think that reflects in my collections, which often explore themes like identity, sensuality and freedom. I hope that, in some small way, my presence and visibility can contribute to more inclusivity and acceptance in fashion and beyond.

7. You have been involved in reviving handloom textiles from regions like Banaras and South India. What impact do you believe this work has had on sustaining traditional crafts and empowering artisans?
a. Working with traditional weavers and artisans has been one of the most meaningful aspects of my career. These crafts are the soul of Indian design and by bringing them into couture and bridal wear, we create new demand and visibility. It is not just about aesthetics, it is about sustaining livelihoods and preserving heritage. When a young bride wears a Benarasi lehenga, she is carrying forward a centuries-old story, a legacy. That is incredibly powerful.

8. What are some of the current fashion trends that you find totally cringeworthy?
a. I try not to be too critical because fashion is meant to be fun and expressive. That said, I do find certain trends a bit excessive like overly distressed jeans or outfits drowning in logos. There is a difference between making a statement and screaming for attention. I have always believed elegance lies in restraint.

9. Having showcased your collections internationally-from Paris to Beverly Hills, how do you perceive the global reception of Indian couture, and how has it evolved over your career?
a. The perception of Indian couture has changed significantly over the years. Earlier, it was often seen through a narrow lens - ornate, traditional, sometimes even theatrical. Today, there is a deeper appreciation for the craftsmanship, the storytelling and the modernity we bring to the table. International audiences are far more informed and respectful of our heritage. It is heartening to see Indian fashion no longer seen as just “exotic,” but as luxurious and world-class.5 gorgeous red sarees of South Indian actresses to bookmark for Ganesh Puja 202510. As a founding member of the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI), how do you see the future of Indian fashion on the world stage?
a. The future is incredibly promising. We have a young generation of designers who are fearless, innovative and socially conscious. The FDCI has played a key role in creating a platform for Indian fashion to evolve with structure and credibility. I see Indian fashion becoming even more global not by mimicking the West, but by proudly owning our narratives, our textiles and our vision. The world is looking to us, and we must rise to that with authenticity and excellence.