Prada's Fall-Winter 2025-26 collection: A liberating take on the little black dress at Milan Fashion Week

Prada kicked off its runway show at Milan Fashion Week on Thursday with its interpretation of the little black dress, which Miuccia Prada described as reflecting "a very black moment" in world affairs.

“It’s really tough to work in this difficult moment,” Prada said backstage. Avoiding direct political statements, she added, “What we try to do is create clothes that make sense for women today.”

For the Fall-Winter 2025-26 collection, Prada aimed to free women from traditional, restrictive feminine silhouettes. As a result, the little black dress and other pieces featured looser, more relaxed cuts rather than body-hugging designs. Co-creative director Raf Simons emphasized that liberation itself is a form of resistance, saying, “You cannot be liberated if you don't take a risk. There needs to be more resistance.”

The collection transitioned from black dresses to whimsical, oversized knit dresses reminiscent of Alice in Wonderland, paired with trousers for a playful winter vibe. Pajamas also made their way into daywear, with buttoned tops tucked into sleep-style skirts.

Intentional raw seams, exposed and visible, featured prominently, along with gathered waistlines that could be adjusted, transforming a midi skirt into a minidress. “We’ve rejected a lot of construction,” Simons explained, specifically referring to designs that restrict movement.

The collection embraced a mix-and-match approach, with most pieces functioning as versatile separates. Short-sleeve and tube knit tops were adorned with baubles like unexpected treasures, while men’s shirts were messily scrunched at the waist, as though untucked. Glamour was woven throughout with faux fur stoles, fur lapels on coats and blazers, and a standout lime green poncho.

In the front row, American actress Hunter Schafer was a notable guest, showing support for the designers. Schafer, who recently posted about her new passport listing a male gender marker, was joined by other VIPs including Juliette Binoche, Gal Gadot, Maya Hawke, and Chen Haoyu. Japanese singers Jo and Harua, as well as Korean singer Karina, were also spotted.

Milan buzzed with speculation about whether an Italian company might acquire rival fashion house Versace. Market rumors have pointed to the Prada Group, which owns Miu Miu, Church’s footwear, Car Shoe, and the Marchesi 1824 pastry shops, in addition to its namesake brand. When asked about the possibility, Miuccia Prada chuckled and said, “I think it is on everybody’s table.”