Diesel debuts eerie zombie-inspired collection at Milan Fashion Week 2025-26

The zombie apocalypse arrived in style, courtesy of Italian denim brand Diesel, which took Milan Fashion Week by storm with its autumn/winter 2025-26 co-ed collection. On February 26, the second day of the fashion extravaganza, models strutted down a graffiti-covered runway, their unsettling milky gazes and spray-painted smiles creating an eerie yet captivating atmosphere.

Diesel set the tone with revealing silhouettes that effortlessly blended the boundaries of edgy streetwear and high fashion. Miniskirts were reimagined as peplum-style designs, demanding the addition of leggings or matching panties for full effect. Meanwhile, men's fashion embraced cheeky low-rise jeans, adding a playful yet rebellious twist to the collection.

The models were a sight to behold, with many sporting striking all-white or black contact lenses that further amplified the otherworldly vibe of the runway. They walked amidst 3.2 kilometers of graffiti-covered fabrics, an art installation created by over 7,000 artists. At the heart of the venue, human-shaped inflatables draped in vibrant materials added to the surreal setting, creating a blend of fashion and art that was impossible to ignore.

Diesel’s reputation as a leader in textile innovation was on full display. Designer Glenn Martens showcased daring new concepts, such as a silicone fisherman-pattern V-neck sweater featuring realistic chest hair detailing. Denim was treated with a reflective sheen, and jersey fabrics appeared to dissolve before the audience’s eyes, blurring the lines between the fabric and the wearer's body.

Martens, known for his boundary-pushing designs, will soon take his talents to Maison Margiela, a Parisian fashion house that shares the same Italian owner as Diesel. He is set to take over from John Galliano, although no changes in creative direction have been announced at Diesel itself. Both Diesel and Maison Margiela are part of the OTB group, a family-owned fashion conglomerate.

Milan Fashion Week, which runs until March 3, is the third stop in the month-long global fashion calendar, following shows in New York and London, and paving the way for Paris Fashion Week. On the same day as Diesel’s show, other Italian fashion powerhouses like Marni and Fendi unveiled their new collections, with Prada, Versace, Giorgio Armani, and Dolce & Gabbana still to come in the following days.