Jhumkas and their connection with the Chola Empire

In India, there is no traditional outfit that goes without the inclusion of earrings to complete the look. Having several options, people still prefer opting for the statement and timeless beauty of jhumkas which are a staple in every girl’s jewellery box. They are a style of earrings that are mainly popular around the Indian subcontinent and hold a cultural significance that dates back to the Chola empire.

Jewellery always has a unique and ultimate form of self-expression that offers a way to connect with your heritage through a form of living art. Jhumka earrings can be found in every shape and style incorporating the signature bell shape into the design which is a timeless ornament for many as these date back to 300 BC, when earlier they were made to adorn deities in temples during the Chola empire.

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Jhumkas earrings were used in temple statues from the Chola dynasty which reigned back to around 300s BCE. Second-generation jeweller Fleur Van Gelder, who has been researching Indian heritage jewellery since the 1980s, discovered the usage of jhumkas earrings typically on the temple deities as a tribute, after which the traditional temple dancers started wearing the same type of jewels and eventually it became popular.

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After the Chola dynasty, the Mughals started followed the tradition and their ladies started wearing statement jhumkas. It all started with the Kanphool i.e. the ear flower, which is a statement stud featuring pearls, uncut diamonds, and precious gemstones. It was then worn with an ornamental chain which is called sankali which ran up into the hair and was fixed with a hook which is known to be the jhumka’s dome in today’s date and formed one beautiful jewellery piece.

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The modern-day jhumkas possess a certain bold versatility coming from the collections of the royal and at times have layered natural diamonds with beautiful cuts and strings with a dainty dome of spinels and baguettes which gives a vintage look. The tassel jhumkas or the chandbali jhumkas are also in trend which gives a more statement, bold, and bigger look to the outfit and looks beautiful with tied and open hair.

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