This story is from August 23, 2004

Taken for a ride before the ramp

The young and beautiful clamour to be models. But they get ripped off along the way. BT looks at the seamy side of a seemingly glam profession.
Taken for a ride before the ramp
<div class="section1"><div class="Normal">Modelling is big business in this city. An increasing number of youngsters want to become models "for fame and money". Industry sources reveal that there''s a "lot of money in the business — but not for the models." <br /><br />Every day, 10-15 youngsters walk into the offices of the four or five established agencies in the city, aspiring to be "famous models".
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And an equal number is "spotted" and "groomed" by housewives, former beauty queens, fashion journalists, aerobics instructors, small-time photographers and other wannabes-turned-model co-ordinators. <br /><br />Co-ordinators procure assignments for models and liaise with clients and take 15-20 per cent commission on each assignment. However, models claim that the co-ordinators are fleecing them. <br /><br /></div> </div><div class="section2"><div class="Normal"><span style="" font-weight:="" bold="">What you see is not what you get</span> <br /><br />Sabrina, 22, says, "The client paid my co-ordinator Rs 50,000 as ‘model fees'' for a TV commercial I had done. But my coordinator paid me only Rs 10,000." Manisha, 18, who''s been modelling for the last six months discovered that she gets only 10-15 per cent of the remuneration with her co-ordinator pocketing 85-90 per cent of it. The client paid Rs 45,000 for Rehan who modelled for a clothing brand. "The co-ordinator gave me Rs 15,000 and charged a 15 per cent commission on this too." A model co-ordinator spotted 16-year-old Nisha and promised to groom her and be her co-ordinator. Early this month, Nisha modelled for an autoparts company. How much was she paid? "Nothing. The coordinator did not tell me anything. Moreover, it is not nice to discuss money. After all I am a newcomer." <br /><br /><span style="" font-weight:="" bold="">Different shades of grey </span><br /><br />Written financial contracts between models (especially newcomers) and co-ordinators are almost non-existent. Mahesh, Limelight (shoot coordinators) says, "This industry runs on words. When the biggest of clients want to conduct business verbally, how can you have time for a black and white contract with a small time model? Contracts with newcomers are too small an affair. It is not worth it. But if we are doing television commercials or a photoshoot with a big model like Neha Dhupia then we draw up a contract." <br /><br /></div> </div><div class="section3"><div class="Normal">Models don''t want to "rock the boat" by discussing money with the co-ordinators. Ashok, an upcoming model says, "It''s important to maintain a good relationship with co-ordinators. Because, he/she can blacklist you." And for every model who rejects an assignment there are 200 waiting to step in for "lesser fees". Adds Sabrina, "We don''t know what transpires between the client and the co-ordinator. But we are aware that more often than not co-ordinators quote different rates to the client and to us." <br /><br /><span style="" font-weight:="" bold="">Model makers speak </span><br /><br />Anila Anand, Aditi Modelling Co, says, "I have worked with foreign models who say that their agencies charge them a 70 per cent commission. Such is the nature of the business. It is not exploitation. It is a partnership between the model and the co-ordinator. However, there are times when a model undercuts a co-ordinator by negotiating with the client directly after going through the co-ordinator. By casting a newcomer, all of us are taking a risk." <br /><br />Co-ordinators say clients pay very little for new faces. Prasad Bidapa of D&PG says, "A newcomer will not get anything more than Rs 2,000-3,500 — even for love." Mahesh adds, "Newcomers will not be cast in major campaigns or shows and will be paid only around Rs 2,000 by the clients." <br /><br /></div> </div><div class="section4"><div class="Normal"><span style="" font-weight:="" bold="">Clients quote their price </span><br /><br />"Selection of a model is based on the product/client, but we are always desperate for fresh faces," says Mala James, Associate VP, LOWE India. "We pay the co-ordinators anything between Rs 5,000-25,000 for a new face depending on the client," says Ramesh Srivastava, Rediffusion. "We do not sign a contract with a model directly unless we want him/her to be the face of the product. A new face gets between Rs 5,000-25,000 approximately," says Mala James. <br /><br /><span style="" font-weight:="" bold="">Industry opinion </span><br /><br />Shivendra Singh, fashion photographer, observes, "The shoot co-ordinators cannot undercut the photographers, make-up artists and production personnel. So they shortchange the models, especially newcomers. They get away with it because these youngsters don''t have a collective voice." <br /><br /><span style="" font-weight:="" bold="">What''s the alternative? </span><br /><br />Usman, a model believes, "It is best working directly with ad agencies. They are fair, and cut out the middlemen." Prasad concludes, "Let the clients pay the models directly who in turn can pay the co-ordinator his/her 15 per cent commission. That way everybody is happy." Till then, "becoming rich" is still a dream for most of the aspirants. <br /><br />(Some names have been changed to protect identity)</div> </div>
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