New York, New York

In the 1980s, New York's dark side muggers and street crime gave almost everyone the jitters. This played on my mind when taking out visiting colleagues for a north Italian meal. Instead of taking two taxis, we decided to foot it there from Times Square. Expectedly, i was a tad nervous.
As we walked in the crowded district, there was everything that we were warned about intimidating cross-dressed individuals, prostitutes, agents in hats brandishing canes and soliciting business.I herded the wide-eyed mid-westerners quickly across Seventh Avenue, and into West 42nd Street. Animated, neon and LED advertisements dazzled everywhere.
On a giant screen high above, the Marlboro man was sending up spirals of smoke. A colleague, Hank, overwhelmed by the sights and by a blonde who winked at him, bumped into a stranger. "Whoa! There, big fella," said the stranger wearing a white Stetson hat and nothing else. Smiling and swinging a guitar, he continued singing 'Rhinestone Cowboy'.
On a quieter walkway, we noticed that an Indian colleague had fallen far behind. When he caught up, he was breathless and trembling. And for good reason. He had been mugged. A shadowy figure under an awning asked him for the time of the day. When Mohan gave it to him, the stranger said, "Nice time. I'll take your time!" With that, and a sharp, pointed object poking his belly, the watch was taken. "It was a hand-wound HMT", explained the distraught Mohan, "Got it for 10 years of service."
That night i wrote in my diary, "One day we'll look back on the Naked Cowboys, watch-snatchers, with a laugh, and say can things ever get worse!" I was wrong. 9/11 happened.
Recently back in the Big Apple with my wife, i took her to the old haunts and Times Square before dinner and Mama Mia on Broadway. After the show, we decided to walk back to the hotel. Were we afraid to be walking at that time of the evening? Did we see shadowy figures emerging out of side-lanes? Nope. This was a changed, sanitised NYC thanks to ex-mayor Rudy Giuliani et al.
"No muggers, no stalkers, this was so unreal," i joked as a NYPD vehicle went by. The city had become people-friendly. 'Disneyfied'. Then something happened. Faisal Shahzad happened.
Ever since, New Yorkers are on high alert. Alley Kay's 'If You See Something, Say Something call the police' slogans are everywhere. The campaign has transformed many an apathetic citizen into the eyes and ears of the city. Any hint of 'suspicious activity', strangers in 'bulky clothing' and 'unattended packages' get antennae up. While the public appreciates this positive action, there are some who believe it has made old-timers jumpy and itchy to dial 911.
On our trip we saw commuters discreetly sizing up people, glances at cars. For visiting Indians, the quick check can be scary especially if dressed in the way we were, in long coats, mufflers, gloves and beanies. Take the evening when we stood at the crowded Conde Nast building. Our Wall Street friend, a Sikh, was giving a spiel on stocks. At one stage, he excitedly said, "Hey! That's an awesome turnaround," whisking out his Blackberry. The flashing green light set in motion a most unexpected reaction. Curious elderly people nearby, clearly Alabama farmers from their talk, backed away. One gent cried, "Holy Moses! It's an electronic thingamajig." The false alarm spread. People started to scoot, shouting, "Call 911." Trying to get out of the melee became tough, everyone was pushing, shoving. Manjeet said, "Let's go," and led us to a cab. "Hit the road, pop", he told the driver, ''there's trouble around." The wide-eyed cabbie pulled down the flag, muttered, "When you see somethin', say something," made a call and a sign of the cross, and burnt rubber like the seven devils were after him.