Jadau to Navratna: 7 types of Indian antique jewellery and their significance

With the wedding season upon us, it’s time to deck out our jewellery vanity with fresh pieces that reflect a hint of history through a modern lens and have been embedded in our traditions for centuries. Ditch the usual gold and diamonds this year and instead choose something from the antique section that celebrates India’s cultural heritage, exquisite craftsmanship, and royal legacy. In this guide, we explore some of the most sought-after types of Indian antique jewellery that make perfect heirloom sets this bridal season.

Polki mainly consists of uncut diamonds set in gold, often teamed with pearls and coloured gemstones. Existing since the mediaeval era, it was popularised under the Mughals in India and is known for its raw and natural look. It is often combined with kundan, jadau, and meenakari work and was once favoured by royalty, worn exclusively by queens and princesses. To this day, it continues to be a popular choice for bridal wear, symbolising timeless beauty and elegance.
(Image Credits: Pinterest)

Introduced by the Chola and Pandya dynasties in ancient and mediaeval South India, temple jewellery is known for its gold-embossed motifs of peacocks, deities, and flowers, inspired by South Indian temple architecture. The designs often depict gods, goddesses, and mythological figures adorned with precious and semi-precious stones. Temple jewellery remains an essential part of a bridal trousseau in South India, representing tradition and spirituality.
(Image Credits: Pinterest)

Originating in the 18th century in Rajasthan, Thewa jewellery features intricate gold filigree work fused onto coloured glass that depicts mythological scenes. It originated in the Pratapgarh district and involves fusing around 23-karat gold with multicoloured glass. Introduced by Raj’s son, Nathu Ji Soni, in the 18th century, the craft has been passed down through generations of the Soni family and remains a symbol of pride, wealth, and status.
(Image Credits: Pinterest)

Navratna jewellery features nine gemstones representing the celestial planets, set in gold. These nine stones are diamond (Venus), pearl (Moon), ruby (Sun), coral (Mars), emerald (Mercury), topaz (Jupiter), sapphire (Saturn), hessonite (Rahu), and cat’s eye (Ketu). Their arrangement is based on ancient Vedic astrology, believed to balance planetary influences and bring good fortune, prosperity, and wealth to the wearer.
(Image Credits: Pinterest)

Originating in the 19th century from the deserts of Kutch in Gujarat, Pachchikam is a traditional form of silver jewellery known for its intricate designs and semi-precious stones. Initially worn by the Rabari community, it features mirrors, beads, and colourful stones that create a vibrant, handcrafted aesthetic. Originally reserved for brides and considered a symbol of protection and prosperity, it later gained popularity for its raw, rustic, and unfinished charm.
(Image Credits: Pinterest)

Introduced in India during the British Raj, this style reflects the colonial influence on Indian jewellery design. It combines diamonds, rubies, and sapphires with floral and mythological motifs engraved on gold. The pieces exude sophistication, craftsmanship, and regal elegance, blending Western aesthetics with Indian artistry. This timeless fusion continues to inspire contemporary designs that bridge gold with pearls, ivory, and garnets.
(Image Credits: Pinterest)

Jadau is a traditional form of jewellery making that involves embedding precious stones into gold without the use of adhesives. The stones are set so precisely that they appear to float, creating a beautiful three-dimensional effect. Introduced by the Mughals and perfected in Rajasthan and Gujarat, Jadau was once adorned by royalty and continues to be a bridal essential in states like Uttar Pradesh and Maharashtra. It remains one of the most prized symbols of heritage and artistry in Indian jewellery.
(Image Credits: Pinterest)