Jamawar to Muga: 10 luxurious Indian fabrics that are more expensive than gold

India has a rich history of producing and exporting handwoven fabrics that have been mentioned in the books for centuries. From the intricate craftsmanship of Jamawar and Banarasi silks, Indian handwoven fabrics are known for their versatility, beauty, and durable nature. Each region of India uses different weaving techniques and designs, with the skill being passed down through generations and families. It might come as a surprise, but some of the Indian fabrics are more expensive than gold and require your sincere attention. Let’s take a look at 10 luxurious Indian fabrics that have a pristine heritage and cost more than your shiny gold.

Kanchipuram or Kanjeevaram silk is the most expensive on this list because of its time-consuming and intense-labour weaving process. Using high-quality pure mulberry silk with genuine zari, the intricate designs and artistry witnesses are top-notch and unique. This process takes skilled artisans months and days to complete the intricacy, maintaining the lustre and premium quality. Kanchipuram also includes gold and silver threads, adding a hefty purchase value to the fabric.
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The tradition of Banarasi weaving dates back to centuries, which adds cultural and historic significance and is still seen as a symbol of timeless elegance with luxury. The time and effort required to create the different motifs on this fabric can go up to months and mainly includes floral patterns, Mughal-inspired designs, and paisleys, which contribute to its high price. Some of the most expensive Banarasi fabrics are created using the Kadhawa technique, which is a high-end laborious weaving process and is a primary choice during wedding ceremonies.

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Produced only in Assam, the rare and limited production makes the fabric expensive and a piece of stunning luxury. Created from semi-wild silkworms that feed on the local Som trees, these silkworms are susceptible to climate change and pollution, with their rearing facing challenges like the replacement of the Som forests with tea plantations. Muga cocoons usually contain less sericin than the other silkworms, which makes the reeling process difficult and time-consuming. Because of the limited production with a high-end result, Muga silk is highly expensive and comes under a luxurious purchase.

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Paithani silk sarees were initially worn by the Maratha royal families and still follow that legacy, making them a timeless piece of elegance. Known for their unique ‘extra weft’ techniques, which require additional threads woven into the fabric to create complex designs, these usually feature nature-inspired, mythological, and traditional art form motifs, adding a unique. Paithani also includes intricate zari work that further increases the cost, whereas the weaving process is also entirely manual.

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Patola silk fabric can be easily spotted because of its double ikat weaving technique. In this type, both the warp and weft threads are dyed before weaving, resulting in the design appearing the same on both sides. This is a time-consuming process that starts with preparing the threads, dyeing them, and then weaving the intricate patterns, which take months or, in some cases, years. Known for their luxurious feel and sheen, Patola silk only uses natural dyes, which also adds to the high-end cost.
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Jamawar fabric is mainly found in Kashmir and can be divided into two parts. ‘Jama’ means robe or a shawl, and ‘War’ means yard. Jamaward was originally only used to create stunning shawls, but nowadays it is used to make a variety of traditional garments such as kurtas, lehenga cholis, and sarees. The technique of weaving this rare fabric travelled from Persia to Kashmir in the 5th century. However, the production flourished during the Mughal reign, and since then the popularity of this fabric has not taken a step back. The widened customer base and stunning intricate weaving techniques with unique Banaras brocade make it a luxurious choice.
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A symbol of royal elegance and heritage, Chanderi silk originated from a small town in Madhya Pradesh, Chanderi, during the Vedic Period. A fabric only worn by kings and queens, Chanderi is known for its lightweight and sheer texture, making it different from the heavy silk fabrics. Carving a niche for itself in the industry of fashion, the fabric’s historical significance, unique weaving techniques, and lightweight texture primarily make it expensive and are just more than a textile, but an investment for some.
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Himroo is made of a silk and cotton blend and is locally grown in the town of Chhatrapati Sambhaji Nagar in Maharashtra. Derived from the Persian word ‘Hum-ruh’ which means'similar’, it is a replica of ‘Kum-Khwab’ which was only created with golden and silver threads for the royal families in the ancient days. Originating from Aurangabad in the 14th century, it was introduced in India under the reign of Mohammad Tughlaq. The Persian-inspired designs and intricate craftsmanship look like a sacred dream, which makes this fabric a living luxury.
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Tanchoi silk is known for its light, rich, and soft embossed weaves and motifs, making it a true piece of art. Closely connected to the rich tradition of Banaras, this iconic silk traces its roots to China. Making its way in India in the 19th century CE, a Chinese teacher, Chhoi, taught some Parsi weavers the technique of weaving, and thus the fabric got its name Tanchoi. Tanchoi sarees are hugely popular across the nation and are known for their intrinsic motifs.
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Made in big looms, Mashru is a vibrant and sleek fabric and is also known as the master of satin finish. Mashru in Arabic means ‘Permitted’, whereas in Sanskrit it means 'misru' meaning 'mixed ‘. Introduced in India by the Western Asian Muslim community, silk is expensive because of its utility factor. Mashru exudes glam and has a beautiful charisma, and is usually constructed for bridal trousseaus such as sarees, lehengas, and kurtas. You can also find some iconic home decor in this fabric, i.e., quilts and quirky cushions that look unique and have an impressive allure to them.
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