PURI: Gola Sanyas is keeping a close watch on the sea. The waves lash the coast on a sunny Sunday, as Sanyas stands guard.
Hundreds of tourists are swimming in the sea, some with life jackets, some without.
At first glance, it seems Sanyas' world has come to a standstill. "I cannot move from here. Should anything untoward happen, should anyone venture deep into the sea and is in trouble, it is our duty to rush and save him," says the lean man, his skin tanned to the core.
"So many people are enjoying themselves here. There are children as well as the elderly. But few know how to tackle the waves, which can often turn hostile," says Sanyas, who has "life guard" written on his forehead.
The 48-year-old adds that the number of tourists is going up all the time and the job of people like him is becoming more difficult.
People in Puri are talking about only one thing: Rath Yatra. They have been waiting for this day for such a long time that many cannot believe the day is less than a week away.
"It is after 19 years that the Lord is being reborn. Nineteen years," septuagenarian Jagannath Mohapatra says. "This will be the first Nabakalebara Rath Yatra for my grandchildren and in all probability, the last one for me.
We will get to see the new avatar of Lord this Saturday," he says.
Slowly but surely, Puri has turned into a fortress town. Buildings on Grand Road have been painted ivory. The government shelters are ready. Hotels are eagerly waiting for the guests to start pouring in. Sweet shops are ready to sell two to three quintals of sweets each day from about the 17th. A lot of people have planned to buy new vehicles. Those who cannot afford one are going for new clothes.
"Bhagaban ebe sustho nahanti, sethi paen mandiraku kam loka asuchanti (The Lord is unwell, that is why there are less people in the temple compared to normal days)," says Raju Palei of Gopal Khaja, stressing the till the Lord is back, business will not improve.
The manager of The Grand Regency, run by Puri king Divya Singha Deb, agrees. "There are many people who will not be here during Rath to avoid the rush. They are coming now. People are going to Alarnath," he says.
An employee at the restaurant tells TOI that all its tokens for July 18 have been sold out.
Sri Mahant Satya Hari Das Maharaj, who has come with four sadhus from Vrindavan hails Nabakalebara Rath Yatra as one of the biggest festivals of the country. "Look at its grandeur. The Lord is reborn. I was here during the last Nabakalebara in 1996. It is on a par with Maha Kumbh, if not bigger," the sadhu, who has been to most pilgrimages in the country, says.
Rajendra Kumar Mohapatra, in charge of Nandi Gosh, the rath of Lord Jagannath, is very busy. "You can see the work is almost complete," he smiles. On how this Rath Yatra is different from the Nabakalebara Rath Yatra of 1996, he explains, "We have more jewellery for the Lord. The chariots have better finish."
The road connecting Puri and Bhubaneswar is now comparable with the best roads in the country, ensuring a pleasant journey for visitors. "Earlier, tourists from the state capital coming to Puri used to take the example of the road between Konark and Puri. Now, people compare the road between Bhubaneswar and Puri with the road from Bombay to Goa," driver Jitu Dash says, smiling.
As the sun sets in Puri, the emotions in the coastal town are clear. The Lord has been reborn, but Puri too has undergone its Nabakalebara.