Slice of Bangladesh

KOLKATA: The simmering Indo-Bangla relations has nearly doused out the kitchen fires in half-a-dozen restaurants on Free School Street in central Kolkata, an area popularly known as "Little Bangladesh." The border dispute and entry restrictions on Bangladeshis has meant that there are few customers at the restaurants specialising in Bangladeshi cuisine."Our restaurant remains empty as there are no Bangladeshi visitors coming to the city for the past few months," lamented Ranjit Bikash Dey, proprietor of Chattogram hotel on Free School Street. Formerly known as Cafe 48, which served chop and cutlet to Sudder Street foreigners, it was renamed almost a year and half ago to cater to Bangladeshi visitors. "We realised a growing demand for typical Bengali food from visitors from Bangladesh who stayed at the nearby guest houses and hotels," he said. He informed it's fish preparations like Sutki Macch, Borola Macch and Rui Kalia (carp curry) and a range of gharoya (home) food available at a reasonable price that has gained popularity among the Bangladeshi clientele, who form over 90 per cent of Chattogram's customer base. Gopal Chandra Saha, proprietor of Kasturi restaurant on the adjoining Mushtaque Ahmed Street, is also suffering. "We have lost our regular customers, mostly from Bangladesh, due to the ongoing border tensions and restrictions imposed on their visit to the city," he said. One of the first restaurants to specialize in Bangladeshi cuisine way, Kasturi since 1994 has remained a favourite haunt for both gourmets and the common man who cannot do without the staple bhat and macch. "Our customers often tell us how our fish preparations are just like they have back home," said Saha. Kasturi is a must-visit for Bangladeshis yearning for their Chittal Kalia (chittal curry) and Chingri Malai Curry (prawn with coconut) while in the city. It has inspired the opening of several other restaurants, including Prince and Radhuni. "We opened the restaurant to cater to the Bangladeshi traders and patients who frequented the city," said N.C. Bhowmick, coowner, Radhuni. It was the tremendous response at the 50-seater Prince in 1998, his maiden venture along with partner Harmeet Singh, that prompted the opening of the 60-seater Radhuni in 2001. However, he added, "The situation is pretty bad at the moment and we are unable to cater to the segment which formed our mainstay." Apart from office-goers and Bengali customers, there are few to relish its mind-boggling array dishes on offer at these restaurants -- the most famous being Bhuna Khichuri, Chittalpeti, Sorputti and Dhakai Murog pulao. While the restaurant owners are waiting for the situation to return to normal, they have hopes pinned on its epar Bangla clientele. "Despite our distinct style of cooking, the fish items are enjoyed by Kolkata's Bengalis and are in popular demand," said the owner of Kasturi restaurant. Among the clientele are the rich and famous, including singers Kumar Sanu, Bappi Lahiri and actor Mithun Chakraborty. "I have personally taken fish items like illish macch and shorshe bhapa for Bappida (Bappi Lahiri) whenever he is in the city," he said. That apart, Kasturi's catering service has ensured steady sales. Other owners hope the stalemate will ease soon. Until then, it is a hand to mouth existence for those at 'Little Bangladesh.'